The following section briefly explains what you need to do to initially setup your saltwater aquarium:
Setting up the Stand
The first thing you need to do is to place the stand in its final position. Make sure the stand is level in all direction. Next, place a piece of Styrofoam or rubber on the top of stand where the tank will sit. This eliminates small gaps between the stand and tank reducing pressure points which might cause the tank to crack after being filled. After the stand is positioned, place the tank on the stand. Make
sure the tank is level in all directions. Note, a tank that is not level has a great chance of cracking after it is filled.
Size of Tank
One of the most important decisions in starting a saltwater aquarium will be the size of the tank. The basic rule of thumb is the bigger the better. A larger tank will be easier to control and gives a bit more leeway for mistakes (which are inevitable). The smallest tank for beginners should be no less than 20 gallons, with 55 gallons being even better. For someone versed in fish keeping (i.e. converting from fresh to saltwater), a 10 or 15 gallon tank will work, but is not suggested. In general, fish like long, wide tanks. The more surface area a tank
has, the better the gas exchange will be and the happier the fish will be.
Filter
There are several types of filters available on the market, including under gravel filters, canister filters, hang-on-tank filters, and wet dry filters. However, for the sake of brevity and the fact that most viewers of this site are probably beginners
who are anxious to setup their first aquarium, we are only going to discuss the hang-on-tank filter.
The hang-on-tank filter is a very popular choice for most beginners because it is cost efficient and it is very easy to use. Basically a hang-on-tank filter works by pulling water out of the aquarium using an impeller, the water then passes through a filter media, and then pours back into the aquarium by the force of gravity. These filters can be assembled and put into operation in about five
minutes.
Water
Water is the single most important element of an aquarium. It is important to prepare your water before adding any fishes, as most tap water contains
chemicals like chlorine and chloramines, which are harmful to fishes. So be sure to get a bottle of water conditioner from your favorite pet shop that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramines.
If you have gravel, be very gentle when pouring water into your tank, so as not to stir up the gravels. A useful tip is to pour your water onto a floating plate or saucer, so as to divert the force of the falling water. Fill water to your preferred
height, and add measured amount of your anti-chlorine-and-chloramines water conditioner.
Fish
How many fish you add for the cycling process depends on the size of the tank and the cycling method you choose. You can cycle a tank without any fish at all.
In this case, you add ammonium chloride to simulate fish waste and an initial source of nitrifying bacteria. It is best to get a bacteria culture from an established saltwater tank. This can be in the form of some substrate, old filter media, or
some macroalgae such as Caulerpa spp.. Live rocks are also an excellent source of nitrifying bacteria.
If you choose to cycle your tank using fish, which is infinitely more interesting than a tank full of circulating water, the number of fish needed depends on the size of the tank. In any case, two fish are preferable to one. If one fish dies, you will still have one to finish the cycling. Of course the second fish may pass on too. If all the fish die, then you have to remove all the contaminants from the tank
and introduce more organisms (read this as start all over).
Lighting Requirements
With the setup nearly complete, you need to consider your near-term and far-term lighting requirements. If you plan on having a fish-only tank forever, then
you only need a single full spectrum bulb. However, if you plan to advance in your hobby and keep more sensitive animals such as anemones, you must carefully select your lighting (and filtration as well). Anemones require very strong, full spectrum lighting, supplemented with actinic blue. The general rule of thumb is a minimum of 3-4 watts per gallon, with the higher values for deeper tanks (greater than 18-24 inches). The standard Perfecto hood will not provide enough light to keep anemones alive (or other light-loving invertebrates for that matter).
For a beginning aquarist, fluorescent lighting is probably the best. Metal halide lighting is really for reef keeping and heavily planted freshwater tanks. In any case, if you want or will need something more than a single lamp, your choices
are limited. The best thing to do is to build your own hood with custom lighting, or buy one through mail order. Fish store prices usually preclude aquarists from getting proper lighting.
If you select a custom fluorescent hood, then you will have to choose between normal output (NO), high output (HO) and very high output (VHO). Most people
with fish-only tanks stay with NO lamps. Both HO and VHO lamps require special ballasts, are more expensive than NO lamps, and need to be replaced more
often (more $$).
Cycling
Cycling doesn't have to be limited to fish though. Crabs and mollusks can also be used. However, since these organisms don't produce much waste, it will take longer to cycle the tank. |
